Thursday, December 20, 2012

Back Home in Ashland, Oregon

"Welcome Home," compliments of friend and neighbor, Kim
Lil' Red tucked safely back in her parking place
Sorry for dropping the ball on the blog. As Erin and I had completed our journey, I didn't believe any more entries were necessary . . . and yet I don't want to tell an incomplete tale. What is a story, after all, without a beginning, middle and end? (I'm keenly aware of this immutable construction, as I try to finish my book, "Under One Roof.")

After five months and over 10,000 miles, we have reoccupied our little mountain home here in Ashland, Oregon. I did a count a few days ago and determined that we slept in over 27 different beds, ranging in comfort from the divine to the borderline criminal. Some were full-sized beds, many were queens and we even a partook in a king bed at Erin's folk's house. I am happy to report we avoided the scourge of bed bugs, although the tiny no-see-ums in the Outer Banks of North Carolina, which were smaller than the screening on our West Coast tent, did subject savage cruelty on my person (I counted over thirty bites on my right calf alone).

While on the subject of camping, we slept in our tent (using a queen-sized air mattress and nifty two-person sleeping bag) for almost a combined month, ranging from single night stays, particularly while on the move from one destination to another, and stays from four nights upwards of a week in the Northern Cascades, Acadia National Park and on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Our greatest accomplishment, I believe, is that not only are we still talking to each other, but Erin and I as happy together as we've ever been.

Maybe I'll post another blog or two about favorites of the trip (favorite campsite, favorite meal, etc.) and the lessons learned, particularly for those who may be entertaining thoughts of a similar trip. But for the time being, now that we're back home, I've mostly been thinking about what it is I love about where we live. This is a natural question to ask oneself after seeing so much beauty throughout this country. Here's a few pictures of our town and surrounding area, by way of explaining why we love living here:

Dropping down from the Siskiyou Summit into the Rogue Valley on Interstate #5

The view of the Cascade Mountains from Scene Drive, a few blocks above our house
A view of the Siskiyou Mountains on the other side of the Rogue Valley
A picture I took from the ski-lift of Mount Ashland a few winters back (yes it is that beautiful)
Also, here's a few pictures on the road from Boulder, Colorado to Oregon:

Driving through Utah
And back on our old friend in Nevada - The Loneliest Road in America
And our lonely campsite at the Petroglyphs - our last day on the road





Monday, October 29, 2012

Back in the Mountains

Approaching Colorado's Front Range from the Great Plains
We're half-way through our drive from Chicago to Ashland. We're spending the day with my friend, Sam, who I know from Chicago, but who is now the Senior Planner in Boulder, Colorado (his wife, Jill, has been commuting back and forth from Chicago to here -- you can see them both in their Chicago pied a terre on my August 21st post). As it so happens, Chad, my brother, is passing through Boulder from Denver back to Durango, so we spent the day with him as well.

Chad and I on the roof deck of Sam & Jill's townhouse, serenading Erin (Sam was at work)
After 5 months in a small car together, Erin and I have literally fused together


An interesting cloud arrangement over the Rockies
Bonus picture: It's nice when they provide pet walking areas in the middle of nowhere -- but don't forget to pick up after your dog.




Sunday, October 28, 2012

The Road Home

Buddha and Purple Poodle Power on I80 in Nebraska
So we're finally begun the endgame in our meandering road trip throughout America. After almost two weeks in the Chicago area (it felt like a long weekend!), we've loaded up Lil' Red once again and slid back onto the asphalt conveyor belt. It was a great visit. It seemed less hectic than our first pass through, although since both Erin and I feel a little burned out, we neglected the city and our friends there this time and I feel a wee bit remorseful about that. Enough with the mea culpas . . . here's a few quick snappies:

Erin with Audrey and Pete in Wisconsin
Da Boys watching a Bears game -- not a great picture, but it's one of the things I miss about being here
Erin and her mom
My sister Cat and her daughter Carla visiting from Atlanta

More later, hopefully from Boulder, Colorado -- gotta leave the hotel.

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

The Northern Suburbs

Chicago is an October sort of city even in spring. -Nelson Algren

Wilmette - cobblestone streets and stately elm and maple trees
It's been a wonderful opportunity for me to be here in the northern suburbs of Chicago at this time of the year as my book takes place. Worth returns home to these parts (he's been living in New Jersey) after his mom dies just before Halloween. Although I've probably soaked up enough sensory data in my decades of life here to complete the book, it doesn't hurt to be immersed in this sullen atmosphere just as I'm trying to finish my book. 

So what are my impressions? Primarily, I've noticed that outside of the tragedy of losing his mother, Worth would be inundated by the delightful melancholy of the season, the sense of loss and endings and bittersweet release. Sounds depressing, but with the shocking colors that nature provides as a sort of visual compensation and the macabre silliness of Halloween, it's really quite exquisite . . . in a sad sort of way. Sort of a death-as-a-part-of-the-circle-of-life thing, which is one of the reasons that it's perhaps my favorite time of the year (and, not surprisingly, Worth's).

Although not much of it takes place right on the lakefront, the shore of Lake Michigan in autumn has a singular feel. It's sort of an Uber-October habitat, where waves drown out the sobs and the mist rinses the tears off your cheeks. Okayyyyy, maybe I got carried away there. Suffice it to say that it's as enjoyable for me to be along the lakefront in fall as it is in summer.

A thick bed of leaves carpet the ground just as the gray clouds take up residency for the duration
If this sort of desolation doesn't make you weep openly, you have no heart my friend
Can't you just feel the sand in between your toes and cool October wind on your face

Just for shits and giggles, here's a few other pictures I've taken around the 'burbs:

A pier on the lake
Erin on that same pier on a chilly morning
(I had to fight the impulse to move the red chair in line with the others for this picture)
"Glorious Autumn, thy multi-hued leaves are a harbinger of my own impending demise . . . sweet, sweet bummer" (Longfellow?)

Monday, October 22, 2012

Under One Roof



I've been derelict on posting excerpts from my book, Under One Roof. Here, Worth (our protagonist who is back in Chicago after his mother has passed away) meets a few potential allies while on his way to meeting his estranged father.



I had forty minutes to kill before dad’s class let out, so I ducked into a nondescript diner called the Yreka Bakery that was on the same block. Stepping inside, the door nudged a tiny bell, announcing my arrival. There was a defiant lack of adornment in the cozy establishment, the sparse room containing four chrome stools at a simple linoleum counter and two small tables, with the chairs tidily tucked underneath. The room was dimly lit and so absent any sign of commerce that I wondered if it was open, not just for the day but at all. The only decorations were a smattering of homey pictures and several, handwritten notes thumb-tacked to the walls, “Harry’s Harrowing Hibiscus Tea,” “The Big Box of Yummy” and several cryptic messages, such as “Tuna nut,” “Too hot to hoot,” and “Step on no pets.” As I turned to leave, I noticed a tiny woman peeking over the top of a pair of short, spring-hinged doors behind the counter, the kind that are ubiquitous in saloons on old TV westerns.
“What can I do you for?” she asked, half stepping into the room, her tiny hands, all alabaster knuckles and long fake fingernails, parting the hinged doors. She looked to be about eighty and she was wearing what was obviously a black wig, lashed in place with a red bandana dotted with bright yellow peace signs. There was a slash of lipstick on her upper lip and lopsided daubs of rouge on her cheeks.
“What’s going on out there, sweetheart?” a man called from the next room. “We got a customer, or what?”
“There’s a fella out here, I’m not sure if he’s staying, though,” she said, still not committing herself fully to the front room. “He seems nice enough, tallish and kind of a looker, but I’m not sure what his dealie is yet.”
“A looker, eh?”
“I’m just saying.”
“Is there going to be a problem?
“Don’t think so –”        
And what’s this about his ‘dealie?’”
“I’m just saying that I’m unsure about his intentions,” she said, turning towards the back room as she spoke. “Capiche?” She looked back at me and shrugged. “I’m just saying.”
I started to speak, but the man said, “Well, ask him, Sweet Pea. In or out? It’s a simple question, really.”
“I’m sorry,” I said. “I thought you were open. It’s just . . . the door was open, is all.”
“Of course it was open, because we’re open, darling” she said. I wished I could duck back outside without hurting her feelings. “If you’re hungry, we’re open,” she said, stepping fully into the room. “That’s the general idea with these kinds of establishments. Food and such. Now come, come and sit down if you’d like.” She indicated a spot at the counter. “Don’t be shy. I won’t bite – though he might,” she said, stabbing her thumb at the back room.
I sat on a stool at the counter. She flicked a switch and a long fluorescent fixture sputtered to life above me. She walked over to me and threw a rag onto the countertop. Reaching under the counter, she produced a large spray bottle. She gave the linoleum counter at my elbows a few good squirts, sending a vinegar mist in my direction. I sneezed and then the man in the back room said, “Gesundheit” and then started to cough loudly, capping it off with several loud, mucusy, throat-clearings.
“How’s about some Muesli with dates and berries?” the woman said, concentrating more on a dark blotch on the linoleum than me. She gave the counter another enveloping spritz.
“I . . . I haven’t thought about it. Do you have a menu?”
“Is your gentleman caller still with us?” the man in the back room asked.
“He’s sitting right here in front of me, Harry,” she said. “And, by the by, he can hear everything you say. If you gotta know.” An old man, roughly the same age as the woman, peeked over the swinging doors. He had a gaunt face with a three-day stubble and more hair tufting out of his ears and eyebrows than the top his head. A toothpick was wedged in the corner of his mouth. “Oh. Okay. Just curious.” He regarded me with impish curiosity. “How’re you doing this morning, young fella?”
“Fine,” I said, smiling. “Yourself?”
“Don’t ask,” he said, stepping half-way into the front room. He wore a frayed button-down shirt with a broad collar and a tie as wide as a pancake. He began to speak and then became distracted by one of the swinging doors, fiddling with the hinge as he swung the door back and forth. “Can I get you some Muesli with soy milk, dates and berries?” he asked, as he continued to noodle with the door hardware. 

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Back in Chi-Town

We've dropped at least 50 dollars in tolls on turnpikes and bridges since the East Coast
And yet again we have entered the Windy City in the midst of a storm. Is this a sign? I'm pretty sure that it's not and yet it's uncanny how we've managed to enter the city twice, once from the west and now from the east, amidst heavy rain and severe thunderstorm warnings. And, not surprisingly, a fair amount of traffic coming up the Dan Ryan Expressway on a Saturday night:



Now that we're here, I'm hopping to post a few more excerpts from the book. S'long for now.


Westward Ho (*UPDATED)

Bar Harbor, Maine to Ashland, Oregon: 3,449.2 miles

 

Our marching orders issued from Mapquest
There comes a time in every journey when one's wanderlust begins to dissipate and thoughts of hearth and home begin to drown out the road's siren song, and it becomes increasingly obvious that it's time to return home. That time has arrived. We would have liked to meander down the coast of Maine, perhaps as far as Cape Cod in Massachusetts, pitching our tent for another week to week-and-a-half, but frequent rain, cooler weather and financial considerations have finally tipped the scales homeward. Also -- to come right out with it -- we're both homesick. So after four-and-a-half months of vagabonding about this great country, we've decided to point our car towards the setting sun and press on home. We had almost headed back right after our stay in Massachusetts, after the jolt of cool damp weather first assaulted us, but Acadia has been our goal since the very beginning, so we managed to hang in there for another week. We're glad we did and yet we eventually woke up one morning and, as we were planning the day, came to the simultaneous realization that we were just bidding our time. So it's with not a small degree of ambivalence and sadness that we have begun the slow crawl across the map . . .





Friday, October 12, 2012

Acadia National Park

The view of the ocean from Sandy Beach in Acadia National Park (with my new iPhone Panorama)
Situated on Mount Desert Island off the cost Maine, Acadia National Park is a relatively small National Park, yet it's visited by over two-and-a-half million people annually, so it's a good idea to see it in the off-season, as we are. For most of our stay at the Somes Sound View Campground (which a fellow camper had told us about down in the Outer Banks), we were one of the few people there. So sparsely populated was the campground that we got bumped up from our $25 a night site to one right on the edge of the water that normally runs for $60. Living large on Desert Island! The views of the Sound from our campsite made it one of our favorite tent sites and made up for some of rain (and a few very chilly nights).

The view of the water from our tent
The leaves are turning above Somes Sound
Our camping chairs enjoying the view without us
We discovered the limits of our sleeping bag's insulating properties on the second night here. The temperature dipped into the 30s and Erin and I spent the night shivering and clinging to each other for warmth. The next day we made a run to the L.L. Bean outlet store nearby and a local Goodwill to stock up on flannel jammies, heavy socks and long underwear and the next night I wore: two pair of socks, longies and flannel bottoms, three t-shirts, my fleece, my hooded outer jacket, scarf, knit hat and gloves and Erin did about the same. It might sound like overkill but we both slept ten hours that night and had a huge day of sightseeing around the island the next day.

Snug as a bug in a rug
A balmy, sunny October day on Sandy Beach

Erin meditating on the granite rocks
Moi on top of Cadillac Mountain
At 1,530 feet, Cadillac Mountain is the tallest point along the entire North Atlantic seaboard and the view is stunning
More pretty rocks tumbling down into the Atlantic
And, of course, I had to have a lobster dinner. It's practically the law along the Maine coast. $18 for a 1-1/2 pound lobster. And since Erin couldn't eat lobster herself -- she's allergic -- I felt it was my duty to describe it to her in painstaking detail.



Thursday, October 11, 2012